Don’t Forget About Flank Steak

Joseph Gionfriddo

So I’m back, I am alive, and I still eat a steak every night after I cook about 50 to 100 for my steakhouse customers…and guessflanksteak what I wanna talk about, steak…OMG!

In particular I want to address flank steak, which although quite similar, should never be confused with skirt steak.  Flank is a relatively inexpensive, thin, trapezoidal shaped, lean, very specifically grained steak. Flank does not cut into typical American portions very well due to its shape, and for this reason flank is often thinly sliced AGAINST THE GRAIN, and served a few slices per person.  Have I said flank enough times yet?  I’m gonna say it some more.

Flank is a steak that I have never featured on one of my menus but I have prepared it in restaurants I have worked in prior to Caminito, and I occasionally have used it as a special.  The most recent time I prepared it was perhaps my favorite, and the inspiration for this post.

Browsing the local farmers market one day I found some excellent grass-fed all-natural flank steak.  The steaks were, on average, a bit smaller than their domestic grain and corn fed cousins, but the color and texture were phenomenal, deep ruby red colored, with little to no fat or sinew on them at all.  I was so impressed, I had to buy them!

Now came the challenge of how to prepare these steaks.  I know you are all asking “how would preparing a steak of any type be a challenge to a beef loving carnivore such as yourself Joe?”  The challenge lie in the fact that I am a restaurant steak guy.   My steaks are pre-cut and ready to go on the grill the second they are ordered.  Flank however is not this way.  It is a steak that is better left whole during the cooking process and sliced immediately prior to consumption, rather than before it is cooked.

The difficulty for this is what happens when only one customer orders this steak? Or worse yet when two customers order it at different temperatures?!  The answer, as with all great cuisine, is a simple one: don’t give people the option, and serve as a family style entree, for two or more people to share.  As far as the temperature is concerned, the more well-done inclined eaters are welcome to have the end pieces, while the other folks can enjoy the nice medium rare interior…nuff said!

With this thought in mind I was planning a menu for a few of my favorite customers of all time, a family of five who I know love the family style dining.  Flank to the rescue.  I used two of my smaller than average grass-fed flanks for the five of them and with sides and salads was more than enough.  However, flank steak on its own does not have a lot of fat, and therefore is not the most flavorful piece of beef, so I needed to do something to flavor it up a bit.

The perfect thing for a steak with a high ratio of surface area to interior mass is a spice rub.  There is almost more outside to flank than inside, and this is the perfect combo for developing a delicious and flavorful crust.  Taking a recipe from the archives I decided to use my basic black peppercorn rub.

There are a few points to take into consideration when applying this spice rub though.  The first is that you want to develop a crust, which is a dry thing, not a wet soggy one, so start with dry steak before you apply the seasoning.   This can simply be done by firmly patting your steak with a few layers of clean paper towels to remove excess surface moisture.  Next, liberally apply the spice rub to completely coat the entire exterior of the steak; patting it firmly onto the meat. You will know you are done when the exterior of the steak is completely dry with a complete spice coating. I like to let my seasoned steak rest for 10 minutes before putting it on the grill, if during this 10 minutes any of the exterior becomes moist, just add more spice rub to make completely dry again.

For grilling and serving there are a few good (correct) ways to do it.  The steak and your grill need not be lubricated with cooking oil because the dry steak should not stick to your grill.  To doubly ensure that sticking does not happen, get your grill decently hot before cooking (medium-high at least).  Flank is thin steak so for medium rare it will not take long, no more than 5 minutes per side.  But please, please, please, let this steak rest for at least 5-10 minutes before you attempt to slice it.  This is done in order to retain the precious juices inside this wonderful meat, the exterior crust will help act as a barrier as well.   Now that you have waited patiently, get out your sharpest, thinnest, longest knife, and sharpen it some more.  You are now prepared to begin slicing your masterpiece,  do so with great care, AGAINST THE GRAIN, and about 1/8″- 1/4″ thick.

Fan out your slices artistically on a serving platter, taking special care to make sure that you display a good portion of both the seasoned crust and perfectly cooked interior.  You will now be faced with the great and painful dilemma of chefs and cooks across the globe: Actually serving this beautiful display, and watching your hungry guests devour with ravenous speed this wonderful and under utilized cut of beef, while making a disastrous mess of your meticulously plated family style steak dinner.

You could, if you wanted to, follow this method for any steak, but it truly works best with flank.  As I mentioned before, flank is relatively inexpensive and readily available (even at the farmers market) so why not try it.  I was certainly glad I pulled this dish out of the archives..and oh yeah, my family of five LOVED IT!

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Photo by: TheBittenWord.com

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  1. Blackening Spice Rub Recipe


  • melissaleon
    Sounds delicious! Will have to try at our next rooftop cookout.
  • Enjoy! Let me know what you think when you do get to try it :)
  • carrieoliver
    Sounds great (I love flank steak). What kind of beef was that one you tried (breed, region, diet, aging...) ? I'm also curious to learn more about Argentine beef. Just how much is the unique flavor & texture driven by Provenance and how much by cooking style? Is it always cooked over a wood fire?
  • Joseph M. Gionfriddo
    Hi Carrie,

    The beef we used in this most recent post was locally farmed in the hilltowns of MA, unsure of the breed but I know it was not Black Angus (which is what we normally use at the restaurant). It was a pasture grazed, grass-fed, naturally raised animal, which means a 100% vegetarian diet, no artificial hormones or steriods were used, and this particular steak was not dry or wet aged at all.

    In essence the point of this article was to show, how flavorful you can make an inexpensive, readily available, steak, by just focusing on the simple details. You need not spend a fortune on Prime, or Dry-aged beef, to make this delicious steak (especially on flank).

    Argentine beef is very similar to the type mentioned above. Argentine steaks often only carry, grass fed as their descriptive adjective. Unfortunately I do not have the knowledge to say what the steaks are like Provenance to Provenance. But I can say that any Argentine asador worth his salt will say that a wood fire is ALWAYS used, and the different hardwoods and intensity of the fire will make great differences to the flavor. Grilling can be alot like breadmaking, you can give two Gauchos the same cut of beef and the same grilling equipment, and firewood, but the taste and texture of their steaks will not be the same. Steaks are like home made bread, they seem to know who is preparing them!

    Hope this is helpful
    -Joe
  • carrieoliver
    Joe, You've just given me another set of reasons to make my way to Argentina to learn for myself. Thanks for the thoughtful response! We were camping recently and cooked steaks over a wood fire. I'm not generally a fan of smoked steaks (smoked beef maybe but not NY Strip Loin) but I have to say, the birch wood flavor was delicious with that particular steak.
  • Joseph M. Gionfriddo
    Carrie,

    Thanks, and thats the spirit cooking your steaks over a live fire. The trick is to develop coals before you cook over a fire. Of course there will be some smoke involved, delivering some amount of additional flavor, but woods for the Argentine grill are most often selected based on their density and coal production rather than thier aroma or smoke flavor, the exception being fruit hardwoods such as apple or cherry.

    I will honestly say that birch is one of my least favorite woods to cook on, and as far as NY strip... I have never met one that I did not like! Just remember that wood fire grilling and wood smoking are two completely different cooking methods entirely.

    Thanks for reading and keep up the good grilling!

    Joe
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