Oct 28 2009

What’s Hot About Cold Brewed Coffee

Justin Rasmussen

When I mention Cold Brewed coffee many people think I’m speaking of iced coffee but when I further explain that cold brewed coffee is something far greater than merely iced coffee their eyebrows peak with intrigue and their taste buds tingle with anticipation. If you’ve never experienced cold brewed coffee and the joy it can bring then you are clearly missing wonderful things. Let me explain what cold brew coffee is before I continue to blather on about its euphoria.

Cold brewed coffee is made with the same ingredients and roughly the same procedures as hot brewed coffee. Instead of using hot water to extract the beautiful, delicious taste of coffee you use cold water and let the coffee steep for twelve to twenty-four hours. The steeping process is very similar to making hot tea but only longer and with cold water. The principles of good cold brew coffee are the same with hot brewed; filtered water and great beans.

While explaining to many people about cold brewed coffee they often ask what are the benefits over hot brewed as the time needed is obviously much longer. With cold brewed coffee you’ll experience a mildly different taste to the same coffee using a hot brewing method. Now this isn’t due to some magic but very basic science, there is a chemical reaction when you steep coffee and when you hot brewed coffee. This is not to say that you’ll experience two wildly different flavors, aromas, bodies, and acidity (brightness). It is more subtle.

With hot brew you might experience a more earthy, smoky flavor but with cold brew you might experience those earthy, smoky flavors but now with floral hints. With cold brew you’ll also encounter a more sweet flavor, often those who put sugar in their hot coffee decide to forego it with cold brew as it is more naturally sweet. (My personal tests have found that sweetness is affected by the amount of time steeped, although I found it subtle.) One noticeable difference you’ll find with cold brewed coffee is what is described as “thin coffee,” some people mistake this for weak coffee as well. This difference is from the absence of oils that are extracted during a hot brewing method; there is nothing wrong with the coffee. Now for those who love drinking coffee but experience acid problems or stomach issues, cold brewed coffee has been hailed as the answer to drinking and enjoying coffee without the aforementioned problems. I’ve heard numbers like 65%-70% less acid problems with cold brewed coffee. Although I have not confirmed those exact numbers I have many friends who drink cold brew coffee and have reported less to no problems with acid or their stomachs.

After you cold brewed your coffee you will essentially have a coffee extract, you can simply put it into the refrigerator and enjoy straight, mixed, or even hot. I’ve found that making the right cold brew like any other method you use is a process and should be repeated until perfected for your taste. One problem that I’ve discovered with cold brew coffee is that many people have a hard time straining their coffee once the steeping process is complete. Unless you have a cold brew canister/product it can be difficult.  We have found the easiest way is to use a french press poured into a filtered drip cone. This method provides a double filtration for you, not only removing grinds but any additional silt that may slip through the french press filter. However, there are many devices you can purchase to make this process much easier but it’s all about preference. If you’re like me, you have an auto drip machine, espresso machine, grinder, french press, vacuum pot, drip cone, an array of coffee bean containers, and coffee making accessories. So for me it was just easier to use what we have than to pick up another type of machine/product.

At the end of the day cold brewed coffee is so versatile that it is most definitely worth the time spent to make it. It is the perfect choice for busy mornings and once brewed takes no time to make new mixed drinks. Cold brewing is close to my heart and I hope it will find a place in yours. Hot or cold brewed, enjoy your coffee and enjoy life!

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Sep 19 2009

Top 10 Mandatory Kitchen Tools for the Home Chef

Joseph Gionfriddo

Recently we received a question in the comments section from Melissa Leon, a faithful Prime Cuts reader, asking for a list of thekitchen-gadgets essential kitchen tools/gadgets for the home chef.  I think this is a great idea for a post and am happy to give the chefs perspective on what a home cook should have.  By tools and gadgets, I mean things other than the basic set of pots, pans, table cutlery, and working stove top and oven.

Joe’s List of 10 Mandatory Kitchen Tools

Many of these are common items that most people will already have, but I want to offer my opinion on the best type, for durability, performance, and functionality. I suggest that when shopping for these items you browse the web for restaurant supply sources and order from there. Home cook supply shops tend to be stocked with overpriced and over complicated versions of what chefs have been using professionally for years.

1. KNIVES -  You really don’t need many, but the few you own, or better yet, use on a day to day basis, should be durable, sharp, and suited to your hand/body size. Avoid buying all purpose knifes that are completely serrated; you will never be able to make precision cuts, or sharpen them. The only serrated knife you really need is a long thin bread knife. Other than that, you should have an all purpose chefs (butcher knife), filet knife, boning knife, and paring knife. Buy quality and you will most likely never have to buy them again.

2. CUTTING BOARD, SHARPENING STONE, AND STEEL -  I include these as one category because they are essentially secondary requirements for using knives, it doesn’t make sense to have knives without them. The best cutting boards are the simplest ones, the white, synthetic, plain board type. They are dishwasher safe, will never warp, can be bleached clean of any stain, and are ruggedly durable. For the sharpening stone and steel, you need not spend a fortune, but buy a stone that has at least two coarseness, and steel that feels smooth but not slippery, and learn how to use them well.

3. TONGS – Simply put, buy yourself some basic metal, restaurant style tongs in both short and long lengths. The tongs that come in home grill sets, are clumsy and weak, and they make you want to reach for the turning fork, which you should never, ever use.

4. VEGETABLE PEELER – A strong wide peeler with a good grippy handle, and replaceable blade, is very important. You will thank yourself when you are doing the thanksgiving mashed potatoes, or worse yet, trying to work your way into a butternut squash.

5. MIXING BOWLS – A good set of three, large, different sized, metal mixing bowls, is a huge personal favor. From breading stations, to salads, to multi phased dessert prep, if you want the ability to make impressive restaurant quality food at home, you will need more than your soup and cereal bowls.

6. BOX GRATER – You may have a grater, but do you have a real box grater? It should a four sided mechanism with four different shredder types, at least two of which are the standard grater style, just varying in size. The other two shredder types are less important, but it should also have a strong sturdy, and comfortable handle, and good strong welds holding it together.

7. RUBBER SPATULA – These are at times the only things to truly fit into oddly shaped surfaces. Many rubber spatulas are also heat proof and perfectly suited to working right in a hot pan loosening a sticky omelet, or scraping the last bit of melted chocolate out of the bowl and onto your brownies.

8. WISK – The wisk is like the box grater, you probably have one, but is it a good one? Strong and sturdy with a large handle, the wisk is the ultimate mixing tool. For making fresh whipped crème, mixing a simple batter, or marinade, anything that needs to be mixed can be done better with a wisk, so why not have a good one.

9. STRAINER – There is most likely a colander in the house for making spaghetti, but this is not the same as a good strainer. Your strainer should be metal and moderately sized, with a long handle, and a clasp, or bend opposite the handle side for resting on the edge of a pot or bowl. In the restaurant there are countless sauces, stocks, and purees that are finished or made better by passing through a specifically sized strainer, at home you can probably get away with just having one.

10. BRUSHES – You should have two types of brushes, one for meats, and one for everything else. Basting your ribs with barbeque sauce is best done with a synthetic, dishwasher safe brush with heavy large bristles, while glazing the tops of your sticky buns requires a brush that is much more delicate, with shorter, softer bristles.

With these tools you should be able to accomplish more than 90% of all home cooks ever will, and you will be able to do it well! You will not have to spend a ton to get them, but, buy simple, durable equipment and maintain it well. You should have it forever because most chefs’ tools are meant for a lifetime of abuse!

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Photo by: fah-lo-sue


Sep 12 2009

Don’t Forget About Flank Steak

Joseph Gionfriddo

So I’m back, I am alive, and I still eat a steak every night after I cook about 50 to 100 for my steakhouse customers…and guessflanksteak what I wanna talk about, steak…OMG!

In particular I want to address flank steak, which although quite similar, should never be confused with skirt steak.  Flank is a relatively inexpensive, thin, trapezoidal shaped, lean, very specifically grained steak. Flank does not cut into typical American portions very well due to its shape, and for this reason flank is often thinly sliced AGAINST THE GRAIN, and served a few slices per person.  Have I said flank enough times yet?  I’m gonna say it some more.

Flank is a steak that I have never featured on one of my menus but I have prepared it in restaurants I have worked in prior to Caminito, and I occasionally have used it as a special.  The most recent time I prepared it was perhaps my favorite, and the inspiration for this post.

Browsing the local farmers market one day I found some excellent grass-fed all-natural flank steak.  The steaks were, on average, a bit smaller than their domestic grain and corn fed cousins, but the color and texture were phenomenal, deep ruby red colored, with little to no fat or sinew on them at all.  I was so impressed, I had to buy them!

Now came the challenge of how to prepare these steaks.  I know you are all asking “how would preparing a steak of any type be a challenge to a beef loving carnivore such as yourself Joe?”  The challenge lie in the fact that I am a restaurant steak guy.   My steaks are pre-cut and ready to go on the grill the second they are ordered.  Flank however is not this way.  It is a steak that is better left whole during the cooking process and sliced immediately prior to consumption, rather than before it is cooked.

The difficulty for this is what happens when only one customer orders this steak? Or worse yet when two customers order it at different temperatures?!  The answer, as with all great cuisine, is a simple one: don’t give people the option, and serve as a family style entree, for two or more people to share.  As far as the temperature is concerned, the more well-done inclined eaters are welcome to have the end pieces, while the other folks can enjoy the nice medium rare interior…nuff said!

With this thought in mind I was planning a menu for a few of my favorite customers of all time, a family of five who I know love the family style dining.  Flank to the rescue.  I used two of my smaller than average grass-fed flanks for the five of them and with sides and salads was more than enough.  However, flank steak on its own does not have a lot of fat, and therefore is not the most flavorful piece of beef, so I needed to do something to flavor it up a bit.

The perfect thing for a steak with a high ratio of surface area to interior mass is a spice rub.  There is almost more outside to flank than inside, and this is the perfect combo for developing a delicious and flavorful crust.  Taking a recipe from the archives I decided to use my basic black peppercorn rub.

There are a few points to take into consideration when applying this spice rub though.  The first is that you want to develop a crust, which is a dry thing, not a wet soggy one, so start with dry steak before you apply the seasoning.   This can simply be done by firmly patting your steak with a few layers of clean paper towels to remove excess surface moisture.  Next, liberally apply the spice rub to completely coat the entire exterior of the steak; patting it firmly onto the meat. You will know you are done when the exterior of the steak is completely dry with a complete spice coating. I like to let my seasoned steak rest for 10 minutes before putting it on the grill, if during this 10 minutes any of the exterior becomes moist, just add more spice rub to make completely dry again.

For grilling and serving there are a few good (correct) ways to do it.  The steak and your grill need not be lubricated with cooking oil because the dry steak should not stick to your grill.  To doubly ensure that sticking does not happen, get your grill decently hot before cooking (medium-high at least).  Flank is thin steak so for medium rare it will not take long, no more than 5 minutes per side.  But please, please, please, let this steak rest for at least 5-10 minutes before you attempt to slice it.  This is done in order to retain the precious juices inside this wonderful meat, the exterior crust will help act as a barrier as well.   Now that you have waited patiently, get out your sharpest, thinnest, longest knife, and sharpen it some more.  You are now prepared to begin slicing your masterpiece,  do so with great care, AGAINST THE GRAIN, and about 1/8″- 1/4″ thick.

Fan out your slices artistically on a serving platter, taking special care to make sure that you display a good portion of both the seasoned crust and perfectly cooked interior.  You will now be faced with the great and painful dilemma of chefs and cooks across the globe: Actually serving this beautiful display, and watching your hungry guests devour with ravenous speed this wonderful and under utilized cut of beef, while making a disastrous mess of your meticulously plated family style steak dinner.

You could, if you wanted to, follow this method for any steak, but it truly works best with flank.  As I mentioned before, flank is relatively inexpensive and readily available (even at the farmers market) so why not try it.  I was certainly glad I pulled this dish out of the archives..and oh yeah, my family of five LOVED IT!

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Photo by: TheBittenWord.com


Apr 6 2009

Prime Cuts TV – Episode #16 – How to Make Proper Mashed Potatoes

Justin Levy

After a few weeks off, Prime Cuts TV is back in full swing!  Today we wanted to talk about something so simple yet for many, so complicated…mashed potatoes.  Mashed potatoes are used in a lot of dishes and for a lot of holidays so it’s important to understand how to make proper mashed potatoes.  I think we would all agree that we’ve had some pretty bad mashed potatoes in the past.  Well, today Joseph explains how to make them properly so you can wow your guests next time!

Enjoy!

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Dec 10 2008

Prime Cuts TV – Learn How to Properly Pan Sear Salmon

Justin Levy

This week we bring you an extra treat with another episode of Prime Cuts TV.  Also, for the first time, we bring you a cooking technique for a different type of protein instead of strictly steaks.  Today we show you how to properly pan sear salmon.  As an added bonus, we show you how we finish and plate the salmon at our steakhouse.

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Dec 3 2008

Learn How to Make Chocolate Mousse

Justin Levy

One of our favorite desserts, and also one of the most popular at the steakhouse, is chocolate mousse.  It is such a simple dessert yet seems delicate, is light, and presents well.  We have gotten questions before on how to make mousse.  While it doesn’t take a lot of ingredients to make mousse, it does involve a few techniques which some may not have used before.  But, what better way to learn a couple new cooking techniques…learning by making an awesome dessert!

Ingredients

10 eggs
4oz white sugar
½ lb unsalted butter, roughly chopped
1 lb semi sweet chocolate chips
1 qt heavy cream

Tools Required

1 large mixing bowl
1 small heat proof mixing bowl
Stand mixer with bowl and whisk attachment (or separate bowl and whisk if you don’t have one)
1 large whisk
1 large rubber spatula
Slotted metal spoon

Procedure

  • Carefully separate the yolks from the whites of the ten eggs.The best way to approach this task is to do so one egg at a time so you can be absolutely sure not to get any yolk in with the whites.Ultimately the yolks should be in the large mixing bowl, and the whites should be in the bowl of the stand mixer.
  • Use the stand mixer with the whisk attachment, on medium/high speed, to whip the egg whites to stiff peaks, and set aside.
  • Add the 4oz sugar to the egg yolks in the large bowl and, use the large whisk to whip until the yolks double in volume and turn very pale, set aside.

  • Place the chocolate chips and the butter in the small heat proof bowl. Bring an inch of water to a simmer in a pot that is of a slightly smaller diameter than that of the heat proof bowl, place the bowl on top of the simmering pot, making sure the bottom of the pot does not touch the water. Use the slotted spoon to stir the chocolate and butter mixture until it is completely melted and free of lumps, make sure not to get any water in the chocolate during the mixing process or it will seize up. Set aside and let cool slightly.

  • Use the stand mixer and whisk attachment to whip the heavy cream to stiff peaks, set aside.

  • Carefully fold the egg whites into the egg yolks, in ¼ increments.

  • In approximately 10 installments, fold the melted chocolate into the egg mix. The reason for the many installments is to raise the temperature of the eggs as little as possible, in order to avoid curdling. The easiest way to lightly distribute the melted chocolate into the eggs is to let it flow through the slots of the spoon, in thin strands. Make sure to scrape the chocolate off the bottom when folding as it tends to sink through the eggs, and you want to get all of it mixed in.

  • Finally, fold the whipped cream into the egg and chocolate mixture in ¼ increments, for this final step it is important to mix as little as possible, just enough to incorporate the whipped cream into the egg mixture, in fact it is better to leave a few streaks of whipped cream unincorporated, than to over mix.

  • Place the finished mousse into serving vessels, or a larger container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Mousse will keep for up to a week.



NOTE: This recipe can be cut in ½ or ¼ but depending on the size of you mixer, the small quantities of eggs that result from the recipe reduction may not whip evenly.

Once the chocolate mousse is completed you can serve it with a couple strawberries, some whipped cream and a piece of mint.  Other uses would include chocolate mousse pie or just eating straight from the bowl :)

Enjoy!

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Dec 1 2008

The Finger Test to Check the Doneness of Steak

Justin Levy

There are three ways to check the doneness of steak: using a thermometer, the finger test, or just taking a guess.  Using a thermometer is the best way to cook steak to an exact temperature however sticking a thermometer in and out of a steak will cause the juices to run out.  Obviously, just taking a guess at how done your steaks are isn’t the brightest option.  Therefore, what we prefer, and most chefs use, is the finger test to check for the doneness of steak.  With a little practice you can master cooking a steak to the level of doneness you like without ever having to cut into it or prod it with a thermometer.

All tests will be done with the palm of your hand.  It is important that your hand is relaxed and not tense or else the pressures you will be checking for will be off.  Each test will involve you using the index finger of your other hand and pressing on the meaty area between your thumb and base of your palm.  You will be comparing the feeling in this area of your palm with that of the center of the steak you’re cooking.

Raw
Your hand is open.

Rare
Touch the tip of your thumb to the tip of your index finger.  The meaty area between your thumb and the base of your palm should give and not be firm.

Medium-Rare
Press the tip of your middle finger to the tip of your thumb.  This will feel more firm and less giving but still spongy.

Medium
Touch the tip of your ring finger to the tip of your thumb.  It should still give a little but getting more firm.

Well-Done
Touch the tip of your pinkie to the tip of your thumb.  This should feel hard yet springy kind of like a tennis ball.

Before you ask about medium-well, it will be the slight difference between medium and well-done.  If you are trying to achieve medium-well as the level of doneness for your steak, you should pull the steak off when it is about medium and let it rest for approximately 5-10 minutes.  As the steak rests it will continue to cook to medium-well.

Now, run out to the grocery store, buy some steaks and start testing!

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Nov 24 2008

How to Properly Order a Steak

Joseph Gionfriddo

One of the things we have noticed the most throughout our careers in the food industry is the differing opinions on what doneness/temperature means when ordering steaks or hamburgers.  It seems that some customers don’t understand what they really want so they order it cooked to one level of doneness and when it comes out like that they say it is either under- or over-cooked.  Likewise, we have both eaten at several restaurants where we order a particular level of doneness and receive our meal either under- or over-cooked.  To solve this a lot of restaurants are moving to just two options, pink or no pink.

There is a lot to take into consideration when trying to cook to various temperatures and we’ll go over that in a future post but today we wanted to share with you the definitions that we use at our steakhouse and are generally accepted specifications.  We have tried to simplify the definitions so that they’re easily understandable for the common customer.

  • Rare - Cool red center
  • Medium-Rare – Warm red center
  • Medium -Pink throughout
  • Medium-Well – Pink only in center
  • Well – No pink

Note: Consuming raw or undercooked meat, poultry, seafood or eggs, may increase the risk of food borne illness.

What is your preference when your order a steak or hamburger?

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Photo by: VirtualErn

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Nov 12 2008

Prime Cuts TV: How to Dice a Tomato

Justin Levy

We have a very busy and long day ahead of us as we prepare for our Luigi Bosca wine dinner that we’re hosting at the steakhouse tonight.  To follow up on our episode of Prime Cuts TV from Monday on how to properly use a sharpening steel, we thought we would bring you an episode showing you how to now use your newly sharpened knife to dice a tomato.  

Tomatoes are something that can be a little tricky to cut especially if when you want don’t want any seeds in your dice.  Well today we show you how to unzip a tomato and no, we haven’t started drinking any wine yet and yes we said, unzip a tomato. :)

Warning: Always be very careful when using a knife especially to dice vegetables as the blade can get wet causing the blade to slip or your grip on the vegetables to slip.

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Oct 27 2008

Meat the Press Mondays: Proper Grill Management

Joseph Gionfriddo

For Meat the Press Mondays, we bring you another episode of Prime Cuts TV.  Today’s episode focuses on proper grill management.  The ability properly manage a grill is essential especially when grilling various items at the same time or trying to cook several meats all to different temperatures.

We apologize in advance for the rough audio.  Unfortunately, the only time you can shoot a video about proper grill management is when the kitchen is busy therefore we had to have our hood fans on and other staff were working around us.  If you are viewing this post in a reader, you can view the video on Prime Cuts TV.

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